ARCO DOGANA
ARCHITECTURE
The mighty gateway to the village of Traona still retains its ancient splendour, as does the site of the age-old customs house, commissioned by the town’s resident podestas to collect trade duties imposed on the transiting of goods that took place in this area, an ancient strategic junction on the Via Valeriana, the sole road that connected Valtellina to Milan and Lake Como. The coat of arms of the noble Parravicini family, a white swan on a red shield, dominates from above in the middle of the archway.
DOMOFOLE CASTLE
An old early medieval castle of the Costiera dei Cech rises above Traona. Commonly known as the “Queen’s Castle”, it is believed to have been the home of one of the most powerful Lombard queens, Theodelinda, who came to Valtellina to convert the population to Christianity and to search for the gold believed to be lying in the depths of the Orobic Alps. The story goes that Gundeberga, Theodelinda’s daughter, was held prisoner for three long years inside the castle walls because she was unjustly accused of conspiring to bring about the death of her husband, the Longobard king, Arioald.
Gundeberga found no peace even after her death. There are indeed reports of sightings of the spirit of a white lady wandering through the castle at night. However, it is not clear whether this is the daughter of Theodelinda, the illustrious queen herself or Adelaide, widow of King Lothair, who was also imprisoned in the castle around 950. This recently renovated location offers visitors a unique, curious and fascinating experience.
PALAZZO MASSIRONI
STATELY BUILDINGS
The origins of this building, which has characterised Traona’s history, date back to the 16th century. The imposing building’s entrance, an arched doorway embellished by granite sculptures, leads into a majestic courtyard surrounded by an arcade supported by mighty granite columns in Doric style, which are repeated in the upper floors’ open galleries. The courtyard is paved with cobblestones with a large circular stone in the centre, which presumably was used to tie horses.
The trattoria is of great interest as it has been in business for over 100 years in the building and retains unaltered historical details such as vaulted ceilings, the large room with the ancient grand fireplace, the 10-metre-deep ice pit and the cellars, now used as storage and as a location for food and wine and cultural events.
The first floor known as the “noble floor” was reserved for family members as it was more lavish and easier to access. The second floor served as servants’ quarters and for domestic activities; in fact, a room there houses the old oven where bread was baked.
PALAZZO PARRAVICINI
NOW TOWN HALL
Palazzo Parravicini, which is now the Traona town hall, dates back to the 17th century and was home to several members of the Parravicini family, descendants of a councillor and paladin of Emperor Charlemagne. The family’s coat of arms, a white swan on a red shield, appears several times inside the palace and is also repeated in the municipal logo. The building is home to extraordinary architectural features, such as the broad entranceway leading into a large cobbled open gallery supported by granite columns with a vaulted ceiling.
Within the building’s premises used as municipal offices and rooms, artistic details have remained unchanged such as majestic fireplaces decorated with fine stuccoes, old Lombardy terracotta tiled floors and elegant stone staircases that allow one to move between the floors of the building. Not to be missed is the “Salone dei Re” (Hall of Kings), a marvellous room featuring several paintings with mythological and religious subjects, decorated with elegant stucco cornices that extend throughout the room and 4 medallions depicting kings and emperors, thereby giving the room its name. Another detail of great interest is the sepulchre dating back to the end of the Roman era located in the palace gardens, one of the few archaeological finds from this era discovered in lower Valtellina.